Tuesday, 27 October 2009

Pembroke on Summitpost

Lst week, I finally finished my big piece of work for the year, an area/range page for Summitpost giving a brief overview of the climbing in Pembrokeshire:


Pembroke is a land of contrasts, both culturally and environmentally. Perhaps the most obvious juxtaposition is that between the land and the sea, and where the two meet, the landforms this has sculpted. The beauty of area’s coastline defies superlatives and is the reason de etra for Pembroke’s wide renown. This scenery is as diverse as it is spectacular, displaying precipitous cliffs, delicate sea stacks, mighty zawns, cavernous sink holes, spectacular rock arches, windswept islands and golden beaches, all packed into the modest confines of Wales’ south-western headland. The coast’s cliffs and outcrops expose the area’s underlying geology, which is just as varied as the landforms it yields, abruptly altering between limestone, sandstone, grit and igneous lithologies, all within a stone’s throw of one another (pun most definitely intended). The geology also gives rise to the distinctly different landscapes displayed by the southern and northern parts of the area. The south is characterised by flat, fertile, largely arable land, which is bound by immensely steep carboniferous limestone and old red sandstone cliffs; while the north is a mixture of igneous rocks and grits which create a much wilder, hillier landscape, which overshadows the surrounding lowlands.

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Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Been around...

Haven't had much time to write much recently, so rather than try and recap exactly what I've been doing over the last month or so, I thought I'd just show you some photos instead. Enjoy



Saddle Bay


Raming Hole


Mowing Word


Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)


Curbar Edge




Porth-y-Ffynnon


Initiation Slabs


Cerrig Lladron


Cerrigmarchogion


Cerrig Lladron


Cerrig Lladron


Dinas Head


Eglwys St. Brynach

So as you can see, I've been getting around...

Crickmail Point on Summitpost

I've just uploaded a new mountain/rock page to Summitpost giving a brief overview of the climbing at Crickmail Point:


The area between Mewsford Point and the Castle is admittedly home to fewer lithological icons than the remainder of the Castlemartin Coast, a fact that is perhaps responsible for placing it on the periphery of most visiting climbers consciences. This absence of attention is however completely unwarranted as there are many, many, fine crags and cragletts to be found here. One such crag, or rather collection of crags, is the small, inset headland of Crickmail Point.

The Point, sometimes known as B-Team Buttress, is home to a collection of surprisingly good routes, all of which take place on good solid rock and although there are no three star classics here, there is certainly enough to keep most discerning climbers happy for a few days. The most popular section of the headland, and justifiably so, is the Upper Tier of the South Face. Here, just a short abseil away, you will find such delights as B-Team Buttress (E1 5b) and Aeron (VS 5a), which lead the climber up a short, compact and beautifully exposed wall, and should be on any visiting climber's hit list. The rest of the climbing is split between The West Face, The Lower Tier of the South Face and the East Face, which although are marginally more difficult to reach, are also home to some interesting and worthwhile adventures.


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Monday, 12 October 2009

St. David's Head on Summitpost

I recently uploaded a new mountain/rock page to Summitpost giving a brief overview of the climbing at St. David's Head:


For me Saint David’s Head, or Penmaen Dewi in Welsh, epitomises all that is great about Wales’ coastal heritage – a far westerly location, a steep and ancient cliff line, secluded golden bays, wild heather-clad hillsides, and the timeless edifices of an immemorial past. For the climber it also offers something special – clean and solid rock, a variety of route types, a mixture of tidal and non-tidal stances, and of course, those iconic surroundings.

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Tuesday, 1 September 2009

What I Did On My Summer Holidays

Last week I was lucky enough to bag myself an impromptu week long holiday, which I split more or less equally between Snowdonia and Pembrokeshire. Since the schools began again on Wednesday, I'll recount my holiday in the spirit of my primary school essays of yore:

Day 1: Saturday

Met Dave in Carmarthen and headed for Range West. Couldn't work out where the hell we were most of the time, this and the poor weather dissuaded us from climbing. Went for an explore instead and took lots of photos .





Day 2: Sunday

Atrocious weather, stayed at home and ate scones.

Day 3: Monday

Met Hag and Tom in the Ogwen Valley where we set up camp. It was late so we decided on a small mountain to climb, our choice Mynydd Mawr in the Eifionydd, a nice little mountain as it turns out. Finished the day with some bouldering at Caseg Ffraith.

Day 4: Tuesday

We had planned to do a scramble in the Carneddau, but wind and rain prevented us. Climbed Snowdon by the Watkin Path instead. Had a look at the new summit cafe, it's better than its previous incarnation but I'm still not keen.








Day 5: Wednesday

Abysmal weather, a stream runs under my tent. Tom and Hag head home and I head for the cafes and outdoor shops of Bettws y Coed. I spend too much money.

Day 6: Thursday

Start the day early and go for a play on the Cromlech Boulders. I have the place to myself. Catch the Snowdon Sherpa at 9 and got off at Pen y Pass. Hiked out to the wild Cwm Dyli Boulders for a few hours solitude. Left for home at around three. Just outside Dolgellau I picked up a Breton hitchhiker bound for Cardiff, I gave him a lift all the way to Lampeter.

Day 7: Friday

Charlotte and I met Leanne and Tim in St David's. We arrived late and spent the evening in the pub.







Day 8: Saturday

Woke to glorious sunshine. Took everyone to St. David's Head for some climbing. Spent the rest of the day wandering.

Day 9: Sunday

The beginning of the end. Bad weather precludes any outdoor activities, so we wander around St. David's for a bit. In the afternoon we go to Solva and do a bit wandering. An evening in the pub is an inevitability.

Day 10: Monday

Weather still bad, Leanne and Tim shoot off early. Charlotte and I go for a walk and procrastinate for a bit. We eventually give in and head for home.

Thursday, 13 August 2009

Rhinog Fawr on Summitpost

The other day I uploaded a new route page for Rhinog Fawr to Summitpost:


“There are many hikeable routes that weave their way to the summit of Rhinog Fawr; all of which take place among subtly beautiful scenery, and better yet, all of which are free from the crowds that plague Snowdonia’s more popular areas. This particular route is perhaps the easiest to access, as it does not require the long drive around to the Rhinog Range’s less accessible western side. It throws in a little more variety than the mountain’s other routes too, beginning in the coniferous forest at Graigddu-Isaf, following a waterfall studded stream up the range’s fore-slopes, and then opening up onto the heather clad slopes of Rhinog Fawr itself. And by doing so, neatly shows off the best this little mountain has to offer.”

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Snowdonia Days

Joe was back from Sandhurst for the weekend and not wishing to waste a visit to Wales, wanted to go and do a bit of climbing. I was in a Wedding on Saturday, but compensated for this loss of mountain time by taking Monday and Tuesday off work. So on Sunday we packed the car full of ropes, racks and guidebooks and drove to Snowdonia with rock on our minds. Neither of us had been climbing for a while, so we weren’t looking for anything particularly technical, just nice, long, atmospheric mountain routes and a friendly grade, with maybe a bit of bouldering thrown in for good measure.


We planned to spend some time on Tryfan, and so chose the Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite as our base. This is my campsite of choice when visiting Snowdonia as it couldn’t be better placed for the mountains of the Glyder and Carneddu Ranges, sitting as it does right on the footstep of Tryfan itself, and only a short walk from the mountain’s most accessible crags and boulders. Arriving in somewhat unsettled weather, we hastily erected the tent before opting for a bit of low altitude bouldering, away from the worst the weather could throw at us.


A short drive from the campsite, and back on the road towards Pen y Gwryd lie the RAC Boulders, a trio of large glacial erratics on the mountainside opposite Moel Siabod. The rocks offer a splendid location for a few hours of relaxing bouldering, having a good compliment of interesting easy to moderate problems, and being blissfully free of the crowds that often swamp the nearby Cromlech Boulders. Despite being relatively unpractised, I was quite pleased with my performance, dispatching problems that had previously eluded me and completing grades V1/2 with relative ease. Unfortunately, a slip at the top of a tapered crack had me slamming my left toe into the rock, which duly turned a disconcerting shade of blue. We left soon afterwards.

The showers had now ceased, and since my small but unfortunately placed injury prevented me from attempting anything too challenging, we decided to go and play around on Tryfan Bach, an easy angled and heavily striated slab, just a few minutes walk from the campsite. We played around on the easier routes, before making up our own, avoiding the cracks and playing on the blanker walls in-between.


That night the weather took a decided turn for the worse as a frontal system pushed rain over the mountains depositing the worst of it on our very position. Much of the next day was therefore spent sitting in a cafĂ© drinking tea. At around 4 o’clock a brief respite in the weather provided us with a window just long enough for a route. Our crag of choice this time was the Milestone Buttress, again just a short walk away, and our route the Ordinary Route (D), an 80 odd metre mini odyssey with some highly entertaining positions. Wet and polished it may have been, the climbing proved interesting throughout, the highlight being an exposed traverse at around mid height. We returned to the campsite just as the weather resorted back to its default setting and the gloom of the Snowdonian evening enveloped us.


The next morning we where woken by sunshine heating our tent and on exiting in search of fresh air a glorious blue sky was laid out before us. The perfect weather to quit the valley and aim for something a bit higher. We’d had plenty of time to mull over possible routes the day before and decided on a Tryfan classic, First Pinnacle Rib, a 186 metre Diff with an unusually technical crux – the Yellow slab, which comes in at 4b. The route requires one to first ascend to the Heather Terrace, a sustained slog over vegetation and scree, which is frankly, an ordeal in itself. The route itself is relatively straight forward, we took it in turn to lead, sometimes linking shorter pitches together. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this as it did result in considerable rope drag on occasion. We reached the summit in fine time, and after a brief interlude to admire the view, made out way back home.